Questions & Answers
Here are several themes you can find questions about:
What are the special characteristics of vitamins which have led to their increased use in cosmetics?
Question 1: Vitamins in Cosmetics
First of all vitamins are essential for the human body and thus also for the skin and hair.
Vitamin A is necessary for cell renewal and cell growth. Provitamin A or beta carotene has antioxidising properties and protects the skin as well as the cosmetic formula from changes caused through oxidation.
Other important and effective antioxidants are vitamin E and vitamin C. Vitamin E also acts as a moisturiser and protects against sunlight.
Vitamin C is a good supplement to vitamin E. Vitamin C is important for the production of collagen and thus for the regeneration of the skin.
A lack of vitamins from the B-complex causes skin changes and possibly premature grey hair.
Panthenol has no vitamin effect. In the skin it is transformed into pantothenic acid and supports the various bodily functions including the metabolism of fat, protein and sugar as well as detoxification reactions. Panthenol is anti-inflammatory and has a good moisturising capacity in the skin.
Also of interest in cosmetics are vitamin B6, nicotinic acid and biotin. Vitamin B6 and biotin inhibit the production of skin sebum and are thus useful in preparations for oily skin and in haircare products.
Biotin is still used in anti-ageing products. Nicotinic acid increases circulation and thus provides the skin and hair with important nutrients.
Question 2: Ceramides as Active Agents
Besides the free fatty acids, ceramides like cholesterol are a major component of the lipids in the skin's horny layer (more than 40 %). They play an important role in maintaining the barrier function of the skin.
The lipids of the horny layer change with increasing age in so far as the ceramides become less. In order to maintain the skin's barrier function and its capacity to retain water, we have developed cosmetics containing ceramides.
The ceramide which we use derived from rice is identical to the one found in the human skin. lt can thus easily penetrate the skin and restore the physiological ceramide gaps in the epidermal cells.
In this way the water retaining capacity, the binding property of the external skin layers and the barrier function of the skin are stabilized. This results in fewer lines and wrinkles, helps to firm the skin and also protects it against stress and environmental influences.
Question 3: How vegetable Oils Affect the Skin
Vegetable oils and fats form a protective and soothing film on the skin thus preventing the loss of too much water via the epidermis and keeping the skin soft and supple.
They are also rich in vitamins, ceramides and unsaturated fatty acids. These ingredients have a number of cosmetic benefits.
Ceramides, for example, are necessary to regulate the transepidermal water loss and, as part of the uppermost skin cell layers, they build resistance against environmental influences.
The unsaturated fatty acids, in particular, the so-called essential fatty acids are also cosmetically interesting. lf there are not enough of them in the human organism, skin problems can occur.
Unsaturated fatty acids reinforce the skin's barrier function, reduce water loss via the epidermis, restructure the skin damaged by outside influences and are anti-inflammatory. They also help to prevent the formation of corneous cells making the skin soft and smooth.
Question 4: Legislation for Cosmetic Products
The marketing of cosmetic preparations is legally regulated for all of Europe in the so-called EC Cosmetics Guideline.
The EC Cosmetics Guideline was almost completely transposed into German law and is legally valid in the FRG in the form of the Kosmetik-Verordnung (Cosmetics Regulation).
This Cosmetics Regulation is legally binding. The Cosmetics Regulation provides a definition of cosmetic products which stipulates the purpose (to cleanse, condition and perfume) as well as the application of the cosmetics (for external use only on skin, hair, nails, lips etc.). The cosmetics producer must ensure that the product is not harmful to the health of the consumer.
The producer is thus obliged to adhere to the prescribed regulations, for example, by providing warnings and ensuring product safety through dermatological tests and toxicological data.
In this respect it should be noted that, since January 1, 1998, a general ban on animal testing of cosmetic ingredients and finished products is laid down in the Cosmetics Regulation.
The latter also includes a list of forbidden substances which cannot be used in cosmetics, a list of substances only allowed for a specific purpose, as well as 3 positive lists of dyes, preservatives and UV light protection filters. Only those listed, authorized substances may be used in cosmetics in keeping with the maximum allowable amount.
The raw materials used must be identified by their INCI nomenclature. INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients and is the basis of a standard nomenclature for cosmetic ingredients worldwide. It should also be mentioned that the cosmetics producer must provide proof for the product effectiveness indicated on the packaging (eg. skin-smoothing properties).
In this way the law provides not only for consumer health protection but also protection against fraud.
The Q10 SKIN CARE
What is Coenzyme Q10 and how does it work?
Coenzyme Q10 is found both in the plant and animal worlds. The human organism can synthesize it from the amino acids phenylalanine or tyrosine.
It is not a vitamin. It is responsible for the transport of electrons in the respiratory chain and plays an important role in providing energy by transforming adenosine triphosphate.
Coenzyme Q10 protects skin cells against the negative effects of UV rays and against DNA damage. It provides an active cell protection system especially when combined with vitamin E.
As you grow older the Q10 level in your organism decreases, so we recommend Q10 skincare products to compensate for this deficiency.
How do you recognize impure and oily problem skin?
1. Increased sebum production
3. Skin inflammations
How does Impure and oily problem skin develop?
During puberty the body's hormones are altered. The production of sex hormones - both male and female - is activated, whereby the body's normal equilibrium is temporarily changed in favour of the male sex hormones.
This also affects the skin. The male sex hormones promote the growth of the sebaceous glands and the production of sebum. This can Iead to blackheads (comedos), due to the increased cornification and the accumulation of dead skin cells in the sebaceous gland follicles. These blackheads then clog the pores and cause a sebum build-up. Bacteria and
yeast grow in the plug of sebum, where they begin to decompose the scaly and oily skin through oxidation and enzymosis. The low molecular fatty acids formed as a result and other decomposing products cause the surrounding tissue to become inflamed.
This process of inflammation in the follicle Ieads to red pimples (papules), suppurative spots (pustules) or abscess-like nodules. Where the sebaceous gland wall is destroyed, deeper skin layers can be affected causing suppurative inflammation which may result in scarring after the skin heals.
These changes are all symptomatic of acne - the most common skin ailment among youth of both sexes - and should be treated by a dermatologist. In order to avoid or mitigate these symptoms caused by impure, oily skin, the latter should be given due attention and cosmetically treated.
What can be done in the case of impure and oily problem skin?
Based on the above facts, the following treatment possibilities are available.
1. Removal or reduction of excess sebum i.e. superficial oily film
2. Normalising cornification
3. Combatting bacteria and yeast
Can the active ingredient concentrates be used without the basic mask?
As the name already implies, the ampoules with the PHYTOMEEN active ingredient concentrates contain highly concentrated active ingredient solutions. They must only be used in combination with the basic mask.
Can the PHYTOMEEN Bioflavon active ingredient concentrate be used to treat teleangiectatic rosacea?
The PHYTOMEEN Bioflavon active ingredient concentrate contains rutin and calendula extract.
Rutin belongs to the group of flavonoid glycosides and is also known as the permeability vitamin. It is found in many plants. When used on the skin it increases capillary resistance, reduces permeability and strengthens the vascular system. It also has antioxidative properties and acts as a radical catcher.
Teleangiectatic rosacea is a facial skin condition causing highly sensitive, reddened skin and often dilated capillaries. Due to soft, unstable connective tissue the capillary walls are prematurely dilated thereby allowing large molecules to penetrate the surface.
The Bioflavon active ingredient concentrate is recommended in the treatment of teleangiectatic rosacea, since rutin and calendula extract strengthen capillary walls, act as antioxidants and have a soothing effect on the skin.